人们爱派，是因为它的个性cnn

Humble Pie? Precisely
By JENNIFER STEINHAUER August 02, 2013
美食
人们爱派，是因为它的个性
JENNIFER STEINHAUER 2013年08月02日
Cake fans are taken in by looks. Pie lovers are seduced by personality.
人们喜欢蛋糕是因为它的外表。人们爱派却因为它的个性。
Cake is a tall preener, calling out from the center of the dining room table, but often disappointing with overly cloying frosting or a crumb that proves less than moist. Never mind. Cake knows you will come back for more.
蛋糕仪表堂堂相貌浮华，在餐桌中央哗众取宠，却往往令人失望，不是糖霜多得发腻，就是面包屑不够柔软。但是没关系。蛋糕知道你永远不会离开它。
The pie is humble, even a bit needy, and rarely gets its dinner-party due, sidelined instead to church bake sales, roadside stands and degrading eating contests. Cake wears makeup — decorative adornments, cursive writing, curlicues. Pie shows the world its true face, often homely, with fruit oozing from its center, its edges sadly singed.
派则是相貌平平，甚至有点寒酸，极少成为晚宴的主角，往往是教堂蛋糕义卖、路边摊和不上档次的竞吃大赛的替补。蛋糕喜欢化妆，用花体文字和花纹等装饰自己。派喜欢素颜，往往不怎么好看，果汁从心里渗出，外壳悲哀地微焦。
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From left: Andrew Scrivani for The New York TImes; Francesco Tonelli for The New York Times

But pie is whimsical; no one throws a German chocolate cake in anyone’s face.
但派也是反复无常的。没人会把德式巧克力蛋糕扔到别人脸上。
It’s also deeply evocative. In her last book, Nora Ephron, mulling her own demise, listed pie among the things she would miss most. Charlie Price, a 10-year-old Washington boy who prefers Key lime to chocolate cake on his birthday, said, “I love pie for its pie-ness.” Fruit, goo, pastry: pie tells the truth about itself.
派会让人十分怀念。诺拉·艾芙隆(Nora Ephron)在最后一本书中思考即将到来的死亡时，把派列为她最会怀念的东西之一。查理·普里斯(Charlie Price)是华盛顿的一个10岁男孩，他生日那天想要酸橙派，而不是巧克力蛋糕。他说，“我喜欢派是因为它够派。”水果、汁液、油酥面团：派讲述的是真实的自己。
“The reaction to a nice cake is almost more intellectual,” said Ken Haedrich, author of the cookbook “Pie” and dean of [要查看本链接请先注册并登录], an online pie-*** school. “You look at a cake almost like a piece of architecture, but pies give you an emotional response. If you put a pie on a table, it always seem to take you back to a time in your life. Peach pie puts you squarely in summer, pumpkin at Thanksgiving. I think that is where the emotional response comes from.”
“人们对好吃的蛋糕的反应往往更理性，”肯·黑德里希(Ken Haedrich)说。他是食谱《派》(Pie)的作者，也是在线派制作学校“派学院”([要查看本链接请先注册并登录])的校长。“你看待蛋糕的态度差不多像在看建筑物，但是派能引起你情感上的共鸣。当你把派端上桌的时候，它似乎总能把你带回生命中的某个时刻。桃子派把你带回夏季，南瓜派把你带回感恩节。我想那是情感共鸣的来源。”
To some degree, pies suffer from a problem of definition. In general, a pie must be baked and have a crust on its top or bottom or both. Tarts are thought of as a type of pie, but really, they are not sweet enough to make the cut. While the English are inexplicably fond of meat pies, pie in America tends to be sweet. Crumbles, slumps, buckles, crisps? Those are pie-adjacent.
从某种程度上讲，派很难定义。一般来说，派应该是烘焙出来的，在顶部、底部或两边都有硬皮。挞被认为是一种派，但是实际上它们不够甜，达不到标准。英国人不可思议地喜欢肉派，但是美国的派大多是甜的。面包屑、千层糕、小饼干、薯片？那些都是派的近亲。
You know what’s not a pie? A whoopie pie. Moon Pies are cookies, and they should have the strength of character to admit it. Hello, Boston? Your cream pie has no crust at all, so you, too, should stop this baseless claim.
你知道什么不是派吗？无比派(whoopie pie)。月亮派是饼干，它们应该有勇气承认这一点。还有你，波士顿。你的奶油派没一点硬皮，所以你也应该停止这种毫无根据的称呼。
This history of pies is not uniquely American but, in many ways, distinctly so.
派的进化史不完全是在美国发生的，但是它的很多方面明显是在美国进化的。
“The early American colonists wanted to maintain as many calories in their dishes as they could,” said [要查看本链接请先注册并登录], a food historian and author. “The advantage of a pie over meat simply cooked over a fire is it literally saves everything. A crust was a bit of a problem because there were none of the Old World grains, but if they had a pie tin and maize, that worked.” Before the mid-19th century, most Americans did not have forks, so the ability to pick up pie with one’s hands had advantages.
“早期的美国殖民者想在食物中保留尽可能多的卡路里，”食物历史学家、作家安德鲁·F·史密斯([要查看本链接请先注册并登录])说，“跟简单用火烹调的肉食相比，派的优势在于它真的保留了所有的卡路里。硬皮是个小问题，因为当时旧世界的谷物美国一样都没有，但是如果有派盘和玉米，也能做出硬皮。”在19世纪中期之前，大多数美国人都不用叉子，所以派用手就能拿起来是很大的优势。
A little more history: the initial pie sweeteners were maple syrup, owing to a plethora of trees in New England, and low-cost molasses, as sugar was extremely expensive in the United States until the mid-1800s. The first known recipe for pumpkin pie was written in the 17th century in England, and the process has changed little, although a bottom crust came later. The graham cracker crust, infinitely easier than a pastry crust, is relatively new — it su***ced in the 1930s — and, of course, controversial.
再讲一点关于派的历史：做派最初用的甜味剂是枫糖浆，那是因为新英格兰有很多这种树，所以这种糖浆价格低廉，而在19世纪中期之前糖在美国特别昂贵。现在已知的最早的南瓜派菜谱出现在17世纪的英国，制作过程至今没有太多变化，不过后来底部也要做成硬皮。全麦饼干硬皮无疑要比油酥面团硬皮好做得多，是相对较新的做法——是在20世纪30年代出现的——当然也比较有争议。
(Speaking for myself, a banana cream pie with said crust is worth trampling small children, who can later be mollified with chocolate chip cookies.)
（我个人认为，用上述硬皮做的香蕉奶油派可以用来逗弄小孩子，然后再用巧克力屑饼干安抚他/她。）
Pumpkin and apple pies started and remain the most popular, largely because a pie made good use of the otherwise confounding pumpkin, and apples were an Old World fruit introduced by colonists; apple pies could even be saved over the winter in icehouses and other cold storage.
南瓜派和苹果派从始至今都是最受欢迎的派，主要是因为派可以充分利用原本不招人喜欢的南瓜，而苹果是殖民者从旧世界引进的水果。苹果派放进冰库或其他冷藏室里还可以过冬。
While fruit pies are an integral part of our dessert culture, there are many pies that have never received the recognition they deserve. I once cornered a woman who brought a buttermilk pie to my mother-in-law after her husband died, hoping I could leverage her sympathy to snag the recipe. No dice. Few restaurants or diners serve this pie, so I remain deprived.
水果派是我们的甜点文化里不可或缺的一部分，但是还有很多派从未得到应有的承认。我公公去世后，一个女人给我婆婆送来了脱脂牛奶派，我想利用她的同情心得到菜谱，但是没能成功。几乎没有哪个餐馆或者小饭馆供应这种派，所以我至今也没有得到它的菜谱。
Chess pie, a simple Southern confection, is practically unheard-of. My colleague Paul said that savory pies are totally underappreciated in America, a notion that I attempted to explore through an extensive survey of my co-workers until my boss suggested my work hours might be better spent watching a floor debate in Congress over a defense bill.
棋派是一道简单的南方甜品，几乎不为人所知。我的同事保罗说美味的派在美国完全没有得到充分的赞赏。我试图通过对同事进行广泛调查来探究这个问题，直到上司说我哪怕把工作时间花在观看针对国防法案的国会辩论上都比做这个调查强些。
Pies tend to scare people, and it’s clear why. Pie-*** was and remains an art as much as a skill. American women historically demonstrated their culinary abilities by *** pies before the late 19th century, Mr. Smith said. Processed foods and gas ranges simplified the process, though a lovely lattice and perfect texture will still win blue ribbons today.
派让人望而生畏，原因很明显。做派从始至今都不仅是一门手艺，而且是一种艺术。史密斯说，在19世纪末之前，美国妇女都是通过做派来展示自己的厨艺。半成品和煤气灶简化了制作过程，不过如今可爱的格子和完美的纹理仍将赢得最高赞赏。
Still, pies are easy to mess up. “People are nervous about everything when it comes to pies,” said Mr. Haedrich, noting that there is so much conflicting pie advice in the world that it tends to leave the home baker confused and unmoored.
不过，派很容易做砸。“人们在做派的时候，对什么都感到紧张，”黑德里希说。他说世界上有太多相互矛盾的关于做派的建议，这让家庭厨师们十分迷惑，不知所措。
He has tips: Roll out your dough on wax paper, which provides control. Always use fresh, wonderful fruit that is in season, because a pie is little more, really, than its filling. “One of the challenges for home pie bakers is finding good fruit,” he said. “I can’t remember that last time I got a good apricot. And you can’t make a good peach pie in November.” (Well, if you freeze summer peaches, then maybe.)
他有一些小窍门：在蜡纸上把面团碾开，这让你比较好控制。永远选用新鲜、上好的应季水果，因为派的美味主要是靠里面的填料。“在家里做派的一个难点是找到上好的水果，”他说，“我不记得上次我买到上好的杏子是什么时候了。在11月份你做不出好吃的桃派。”（呃，如果你冷藏一些夏季的桃子，也许能做出来。）
The bottom crust is often soggy, but this can be prevented by pre-baking it, or starting the pie near the bottom of the oven, beginning with a blast of heat (say, 400 degrees), then turning it down midway. “People are often confused about when the pie is done,” he said, noting that a proper pie should be juicy and bubbling all over, or the thickener is not going to take.
底部的硬皮经常不够脆，但是通过预先烘焙可以避免这一点，或者把派放在烤箱的底部，一开始用高温（比如400华氏度）烘焙，然后中途把温度调低。“人们经常弄不清什么时候派算是做好了，”他说。他说一个可口的派应该汁液丰富且完全沸腾，不然的话汁液无法变稠。
An oven liner comes in handy should that volcanic pie spill over. I know some (including a few of my colleagues) will disagree, but no placing the pie on a baking sheet, please. “That tends to moderate the heat so much that you don’t get a good browning on the bottom crust,” he said.
手边要有一个烤箱衬垫，以备火山熔岩般的派汁溢出。我知道有些人（包括我的几个同事）不赞成这种做法，但是请不要把派放在烤盘上。“那样会使热度降低，底部的硬皮就做不出好看的焦黄色，”他说。
And so here we are at the end, friends, knowing that our crust may, in fact, end up shambolic, our lattice more cattle guard than window treatment, and that fruit may be dripping from the oven door as we look on sadly with a roll of paper towels.
朋友们，现在到了最后，我们知道实际上硬皮可能变得一团糟，我们做的格子花纹可能更像拦牛铁栏，而不像窗格子，果汁可能从烤箱门上往下滴，而我们只能悲哀地拿着一卷纸巾看着。
So what? You put that baby out there on the table and smile big, because your guests are about to be mighty grateful. “For a lot of people, a pie is not enough of a show-off,” Mr. Haedrich lamented. “They think, ‘I should do a tiramisù or a mini-tart with strawberry architecture.’ But I am just not into that kind of thing.
那又怎样？你把那个宝贝放到桌子上，开心地笑，因为客人们会非常感激。“因为在很多人看来，一个派还不够炫耀厨艺，”黑德里希叹道。“他们认为，‘我应该做个提拉米苏或者迷你草莓挞。’”但是我就是不迷恋那种东西。
“I’m into pie.”
“我就是迷恋派。”
RECIPE
食谱：
Key Lime Pie
酸橙派
Adapted from “Heartburn,” by Nora Ephron
改编自诺拉·艾芙隆的《心痛》(Heartburn)
TOTAL TIME
总计用时：
15 minutes, plus 3 hours for freezingINGREDIENTS

配料：
• 6 large egg yolks
6个大蛋黄
• 2 14-ounce cans sweetened condensed milk
2罐14盎司的甜炼乳
• 1 cup freshly squeezed or bottled Key lime juice
1杯鲜榨或瓶装的酸橙汁
• 1 tablespoon finely grated lime zest
1汤匙磨碎的酸橙皮屑
• One prepared 9-inch graham cracker crust, refrigerated
1个备好的9英寸全麦饼干硬皮，冷藏
• 2 to 3 cups lightly sweetened whipped cream, for topping
2至3杯微甜的生奶油，顶部装饰用
PREPARATION
制作方法：
1. In a mixing bowl, beat yolks until thick, about 3 minutes. Add condensed milk, lime juice and lime zest. Beat again until well blended, about 1 minute.
1. 在搅拌碗中搅拌蛋黄，直至变稠，约需3分钟。加入炼乳、酸橙汁和酸橙皮屑。再次搅拌，直至完全混合，约需1分钟。
2. Pour into pie shell, filling it to the brim and mounding slightly on top. Cover with plastic wrap, stretching wrap tightly across su***ce. Freeze until firm, at least three hours.
2.  把混合物倒入派的外壳中，一直灌到边缘，顶部微微隆起。用塑料保鲜膜盖住，紧贴表面把包裹物碾开。冷藏直至变硬，至少需要3个小时。
3. Just before serving, remove from freezer and discard plastic wrap. Allow to rest for 5 minutes, then spread with whipped cream and serve.
3. 上桌之前，从冰箱中取出，去掉塑料保鲜膜。晾5分钟，然后撒上生奶油上桌。
YIELD
分量：
One 9-inch pie (8 servings)
1个9英寸的派（8人份）。