如何找到时髦又实用的自行车鞋？

Looking Smart on the Pedals
By ANEMONA HARTOCOLLIS July 24, 2013
时尚
如何找到时髦又实用的自行车鞋？
ANEMONA HARTOCOLLIS 2013年07月24日
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On a recent afternoon, Jocelyn Steiber zipped across Prince Street on a bright blue Citi Bike: blond hair loose, floral print Ella Moss sundress parachuting like Marilyn Monroe.
最近的某天下午，乔塞琳·斯泰贝尔(Jocelyn Steiber)骑着一辆亮蓝色的“Citi Bike”公共自行车快速穿行于王子街：她金发飘飘，一件花纹图案的埃拉·摩斯(Ella Moss)太阳裙飞扬起来，就像玛丽莲·梦露(Marilyn Monroe)一样。
As she approached the Cafe Gitane docking station, Ms. Steiber, a charter member of New York City’s seven-week-old bike-share program, put down a foot — with pink toenails — clad in wedge-heel beige gladiator sandals. The shoe was no accident, but a considered choice.
斯泰贝尔是纽约市这个刚诞生七个星期的公共自行车项目的创始会员。在靠近吉塔内咖啡馆(Cafe Gitane)的停车站时，她单脚着地——脚指甲涂成了粉红色，穿着米色的楔形跟罗马鞋。这不是随便穿上的一双，而是一个有心思的选择。
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Casey Kelbaugh for The New York Times
适合的骑行鞋，既要能保证骑行表现，又要具备通用性。
“I’ve tried to do stilettos on bikes and it’s just too hard, you’re just slipping,” said Ms. Steiber, 27, who commutes daily by bike from NoLIta, where she lives, to the West Village, where she is the owner of Jost Social Media. Today she was returning from a Helmut Lang sample sale, bargain loot secured in her bike basket with the built-in bungee cord. “I like to be fashionable and safe,” Ms. Steiber said. “I find wedges are best, and kind of funky, which I like. It’s easy to pair anything with them.”
“我试过穿细高跟鞋骑自行车，但这实在太难了，一个劲儿地打滑，”27岁的斯泰贝尔说，她每天从居住的诺丽塔区骑车到西村上班，她是乔斯特社交传媒(Jost Social Media)的老板。今天她刚从海尔姆特·朗(Helmut Lang)的样品特卖场回来，减价战利品放在带有内置橡皮绳的自行车篮里。“我既要时尚又要安全，”斯泰贝尔说，“我发现楔形鞋是最好的，并且颇有点‘funky’味道，这是我喜欢的。而且它们也很百搭。”
Now that bike sharing is sweeping New York, what to wear on your foot? As Ms. Steiber can testify, this is not a trivial question. The correct shoe can make biking more efficient and reduce stress on the knees, shins and feet. The serious bike shoe with cleats that click into the pedals gives cyclists the feeling of being one with their steeds. But the new program’s 45-pound bike is harder to wrangle, and is not made for cleats.
在公共自行车席卷纽约的当下，你的脚上应该穿些什么呢？这可不是个小问题，这一点斯泰贝尔可以作证。恰当的鞋能够让骑车更有效率，并且能减低膝盖、胫骨和脚部承受的压力。正规的自行车鞋带有能嵌进踏板里的防滑钉，让骑行者有着驾驭自己坐骑的感觉。不过这个新公共自行车项目里那些45磅重的自行车，踏板可没那么容易咬得住，而且它也不是为防滑钉而设计的。
Some New Yorkers have been channeling junior high, when flip-flops were de rigueur for cycling to the swimming pool or the Dairy Queen. Many have reached for their Converse All-Stars.
一些纽约客从初中时代寻找灵感，那时候穿人字拖骑车去泳池或者冰雪皇后(Dairy Queen)雪糕店是一种时髦。还有很多人会选择匡威(Converse)的”All-Star”帆步鞋。
But other users of this program are doggedly searching for the ultimate bike shoe, one promising performance as well as versatility to travel from bike to boardroom, cubicle or cocktail party, without *** it obvious how you got there. It is bad enough having to carry an extra bag to the office for the switch from walking shoes to work shoes. What woman in her right mind wants to start carrying three bags: one for lipstick, keys, wallet and baby wipes (to pat down after a sweaty bike ride); a second for sneakers; and a third for bike shoes?
不过使用这个项目的另一些人，却是不遗余力地寻找最好的自行车鞋，它既要能保证骑行表现，又要具备通用性，上得了自行车，也走得进会议室、办公室隔间或者鸡尾酒会，而不会让人一眼就看出你是怎么来的。为了要将步行鞋换成工作鞋而不得不多拿一个包去办公室，这已经是够糟糕的了。哪一个头脑正常的女人会想要开始带三个包呢：一个装唇膏、钥匙、钱包和湿纸巾（在骑车骑得汗流浃背之后用来擦身）；第二个用来装便鞋；第三个用来装骑行鞋？
A few shoe designers are trying to dictate solutions, but for the most part, New Yorkers are finding their own way through trial and error.
一些鞋履设计师正试图制定解决方案，但在很大程度上，纽约客们都是在试验和失误中寻找自己的路子。
Among the winners: wedges, anything strappy and classic high heels, the stiffer the better. To be avoided: stilettos, flip-flops and any other shoe that is likely to bend in half or fall under a passing taxicab.
比较优胜的选择是：楔形鞋，就是有带子以及经典高跟的鞋，而且要越硬越好。应该避免的是：细高跟鞋、人字拖以及其他任何容易从中间折弯或者掉进驶过的出租车车底的鞋子。
“As long as it doesn’t fall off my feet or get caught in the pedals,” said Emilia Petrarca, a 21-year-old Vassar senior, cycling through Lower Manhattan to her internship at The Daily Beast, wearing black mesh sandals with ankle straps from Loeffler Randall. “Espadrilles are O.K., like wrapped around my ankle. Definitely it helps to have ankle straps.”
“只要它不从我脚上掉下来或者卡在踏板上就行，”21岁的瓦萨学院大四学生艾米莉娅·佩特拉卡(Emilia Petrarca)说，她从曼哈顿下城骑车到《每日野兽》(The Daily Beast)实习，穿的是洛菲勒·兰德尔(Loeffler Randall)带踝带的黑色透气凉鞋。“系带平底鞋是可以的，就像我现在包着脚踝的这双。踝带肯定会有帮助。”
For men, meanwhile, it seems a good biking shoe is one that is also a good walking shoe.
与此同时，对于男士来说，一双好的骑行鞋似乎就应该同时是一双好的步行鞋。
Nicolas Cheung, 22, on his way from 47th Street to Fulton Street to visit a friend (“20 minutes,” he boasted), chose high-top sneakers bearing a Lacoste crocodile label. “This bicycle is really hard to ride,” he said, explaining his preference for athletic shoes while wrestling the blue bike. “It works your muscles. It’s really heavy.”
22岁的尼古拉斯·张(Nicolas Cheung)正在从第47街骑去富尔顿街的路上，他要去拜访一个朋友（他吹嘘说“20分钟就到了”）。他选择穿有鳄鱼商标的Lacoste高帮帆布鞋。“这辆车真的很难骑，”他自己跟这辆蓝色的自行车搏斗的时候喜欢穿运动鞋，“它能锻炼你的肌肉，它真的很重。”
Cruising down Allen Street to his job at a nonprofit housing organization, white curls and beard blowing in the draft, Andrew Reicher, 62, was wearing Keen hiking boots, which adapted nicely, he said, from walking to biking.
沿着艾伦街向着他工作的非营利住房机构前进的，是62岁的安德鲁·雷彻尔(Andrew Reicher)，他穿着”Keen”的徒步旅行鞋，他说，这双鞋能很好地同时适应步行和骑行。
Hadley Harris, 36, a venture capitalist for mobile technology start-ups, upgraded from sneakers to dress shoes after a few spins on the bike. Mr. Harris rides from his apartment near Cafe Gitane to his office in Union Square and back. On one day recently, he was wearing gray suede shoes from Camper, the Mallorcan shoe label, harmonized with a white linen shirt and jeans. “No problem,” Mr. Harris said. “I think sandals would be fine too, other than a Havaiana,” a popular flip-flop brand. “Like a Tom’s,” he added.
36岁的哈德利·哈里斯(Hadley Harris)是一位移动技术创业企业的风险投资人，他在自行车上骑了几圈之后，就从便鞋升级到了正装鞋。哈里斯是从他在吉塔内咖啡馆附近的公寓和联合广场的办公室之间来回。最近的某一天，他穿着一双来自马略卡的鞋子品牌“Camper”的灰色山羊皮鞋，清爽地搭配着白色的亚麻衬衫和牛仔裤。“这没有问题，”哈里斯说，“我觉得凉鞋也是可以的，还有哈瓦那(Havaiana)也行，”那是一个流行的人字拖品牌，“就像汤姆布鞋(Tom’s)，”他补充道。
Through word of mouth, some cyclists have found their way to artisanal shoe shops, like Shoe, at 247 Mulberry Street, or No. 6, near the old police building at Centre Market Place. At Shoe, the proprietor, Leila Mae Makdissi, said the Cydwoq brand leather shoes, handmade in California, are designed for walking. But customers have discovered that the steel shank and rubber traction are good for bike riding, too. “Our customer is urban, urban, urban,” Ms. Makdissi said.
通过口口相传，一些骑行者找到了一些手工鞋店，比如桑树街(Mulberry Street)247号的“Shoe”，或者是中心市场(Centre Market Place)旧警局大楼附近的“6号店”(No.6)等。在“Shoe”，店主莉拉·梅·马克迪西(Leila Mae Makdissi)介绍说， Cydwoq牌的皮鞋，在加州手工制造，是为步行设计的。不过顾客们却发现，它上面的钢质弓形垫和橡胶牵引带对于自行车骑行也很好。“我们的顾客是不折不扣的都市人，”马克迪西说。
No. 6 offers multiple variations on its house shoe, a lightweight wooden clog, from buckle boot to lace-up corset to sling-back. “I actually have a Citi key and I ride in those shoes,” said one customer, Renata Bokalo, director of jewelry and accessories for a wholesale lifestyle showroom, poking her head out of the dressing room. “The platform wedge has a little hook that hooks in perfectly to the pedal.”
“6号店”则提供了它的招牌鞋款——一双轻巧木屐——的各种变体，从带扣子的靴到加箍的花边鞋再到后跟勾带鞋等等。“我真的有一把‘Citi’的钥匙，骑车的时候穿的就是那些鞋，”其中一个顾客、一个生活方式批发展厅的珠宝与配饰总监蕾娜塔·博卡洛(Renata Bokalo)说道，她从试衣间里探出头来，“鞋底的楔子有一个小钩，它正好能钩住脚踏板。”
Karin Bereson, an owner of No. 6, agreed that “they are extremely popular for girls riding bikes,” but warned: “They’re not meant to withstand a beating. They are not impermeable to the damage that would happen if you ride your bike every day.” For that reason, she said: “We don’t recommend them as cycling shoes. However, we do feel that if you need to ride your bike to your date or whatever, they’re the perfect shoe.”
“6号店”的店主之一卡琳·贝雷森(Karin Bereson)也认同，“它们在骑车的女孩中间很流行。”但她也警告说：“它们不是用来承受摧残的。每天骑车也可能把鞋弄坏。”出于这个原因，她说：“我们不推荐把它们当作骑行鞋。但是，我们确实也觉得，如果你需要骑自行车去约会之类的，它们是完美的鞋款。”
For those who need more of a workhorse, Merrell is expanding its Evera bike shoe line, which features high heels with a stability shank that fits into the pedal, peekaboo cutouts, ankle straps or boots and a little spot of reflective tape on the heel, telegraphing that it is a bike shoe. The tape seems like an inside joke, but Craig Throne, a vice president on the design and marketing team and a veteran London cyclist, said it has practical value, “for that odd time when you’re cycling home when you’ve had too many drinks.”
为了那些需要更耐久的鞋子的人，迈乐(Merrell)正在扩张它的“Evera”自行车鞋生产线，当中包括了一些高跟鞋，带有能咬合进脚踏板的稳定柄、网眼刺绣镂空装饰和踝带；或者在鞋跟后面有一小块反光带的靴子，暗示了这是一双骑行鞋。这块反光带像是一个内行人的玩笑，但作为设计和市场营销团队副总以及一名资深的伦敦骑行者——克雷格·特罗恩(Craig Throne)说，它是有实用价值的：“在你喝了太多还要骑车回家的特殊时候，它就能起作用。”
The Merrell design team includes cyclists from Montreal, one of the early bike-share cities. One of their epiphanies was that high heels are built like cycling shoes. Flexibility diminishes pedaling power, Mr. Throne said. “So for all practical purposes, the best shoe that you can have from a commuter standpoint is a woman’s heel. It’s stiff from heel to toe.”
迈乐的设计团队包括了来自蒙特利尔的骑行者，那是其中一个较早开展公共自行车项目的城市。他们领悟到的其中一点是，高跟鞋的构造跟骑行鞋是相似的。鞋身弹性会降低脚踏板的受力，特罗恩说，“所以就实用目的而言，从长期通勤者的角度看，你所能拥有的最好的鞋就是女士的高跟鞋。它从脚跟到脚尖都是坚硬的。”
Chrome Industries, the San Francisco company that is the favorite of bike messengers, makes several styles of performance cycling shoes that look like street shoes. They are made of abrasive-resistant materials, with a reinforced shank, to distribute weight and reduce pressure, a grippy sole and a shock-absorbing heel pad, said Andy Perez, a salesman at the Chrome store on Mulberry Street. Mr. Perez described the shoes as uni***, but they are, frankly, masculine and more casual than dressy.
旧金山的克罗姆工业公司(Chrome Industries)是单车邮差的最爱，他们制造了好几款针对骑行表现但看起来像街鞋的骑行鞋。桑树街克罗姆门店的销售员安迪·佩雷兹(Andy Perez)说，这些鞋是用抗磨材料制作的，带有加固柄，用来将重力分散并且减轻压力，还有抓力强的鞋底和吸震的后跟垫。佩雷兹说这款鞋是中性的，但老实说，它们很男人，并且偏休闲多于时髦。
Enter Kevin Dohn and Meghan Drake, footwear designers in New York, to brainstorm the ideal shoe for this bike. Mr. Dohn suggested a Mad Magazine treatment: a blue shoe trimmed with nostalgic handlebar-style streamers and a “pedestrian prodder.” Ms. Drake started with a Mary Jane. “The Mary Jane was never my favorite shoe,” she said. “She was good for one thing: comfort, and the fashion conscious always steered clear of her. So how do we take an inherently dowdy girl and get her a job at a P.R. firm?”
凯文·多恩(Kevin Dohn)和梅甘·德雷克(Meghan Drake)也加入进来，他们是纽约的鞋履设计师，为寻找这种自行车的理想骑行鞋而出谋划策。多恩建议采用《疯狂杂志》(Mad Magazine)那样的做法：一双蓝色的鞋，用单车把手形状的怀旧风格条纹和徒步者手杖图案做装饰。德雷克首先拿玛丽珍鞋(Mary Jane)来举例。“玛丽珍鞋从来不是我最喜欢的鞋，”她说，“它的好处就是一样：舒服，而有时尚感的人总是躲开它。那么，我们要如何让一个素来不修边幅的女孩，能在一家公关公司里找到工作呢？”
After some rumination, Ms. Drake came up a shoe she calls “the Modern Mary Jane.” It has a removable ankle strap, grime-resistant leather, concealed rubber tread and ***y pointy toe.
在沉思了一会儿之后，德雷克想到了一款被她称为“现代玛丽珍”的鞋款。它有可拆卸的踝带，防尘皮革，密封橡胶鞋底，以及性感的尖形鞋头。
Move over, Manolo Blahnik. Or make us some wedges.
这样一来，莫罗·伯拉尼克(Manolo Blahnik)就该让位了吧，除非它也能给我们做出一些楔形鞋。