黛安·冯芙丝汀宝如何像个牛仔
黛安·冯芙丝汀宝如何像个牛仔
How Diane von Furstenberg Is Like a Cowboy
By Interview by ANDREW GOLDMAN August 09, 2013
访谈
黛安·冯芙丝汀宝如何像个牛仔
Interview by ANDREW GOLDMAN 2013年08月09日
Next year, your wrap dress will turn 40. If my great-granddaughter enrolls in the Fashion Institute of Technology, what do you think they’ll say about the dress?
明年就是你设计的裹身裙诞生40周年。如果我的曾孙女报名参加时装技术学院,你觉得那里的老师会怎样评价这款裙子?
It will definitely be in the book. At 25, I had no idea I would be creating something that would be so meaningful. When I first started, my motivation was to be independent, so I created this dress, and in no time at all I lived an American dream. Fourteen years ago, I started again, because I realized that young girls were buying the old dresses in thrift shops. My motivation then was to prove to myself and the world that it hadn’t been an accident the first time.
这款裙子肯定会出现在教科书里。25岁的时候,我完全不知道自己能设计出这么有意义的东西。一开始,我只是想独立,所以我设计了这款裙子,没多久我就实现了美国梦。14年前,我重新开始,因为我发现年轻姑娘们在旧货商店里购买那些老裙子。我想向自己和世界证明我的第一次成功不是偶然。
Do you think it has been all good news for the DVF woman since the early days of the dress?
从那款裙子诞生之初,DVF女装一直一帆风顺吗?
You know, the situation with women is very much on a pendulum. All I can tell you is that I’ve never met a woman who is not strong, but sometimes they don’t let it out. Then there’s a tragedy, and then all of a sudden that strength comes. My message is let the strength come out before the tragedy.
你知道,女人的境况非常摇摆不定。我能告诉你的是,我从没遇到过不坚强的女人,但是有时她们并不把它表现出来。遇到灾难时,突然之间那种力量就爆发出来了。我想说的是,要在灾难到来之前就表现出你的力量。
There was a period after the first company folded when various people got your licenses, and your name was on stuff you probably wouldn’t buy yourself. Did that bother you?
在第一个公司倒闭之后的一段时间,很多人得到了你的授权,你的名字出现在各种东西上,有的东西很可能你自己都不会买。那让你难过吗?
Yes, it had lost its spirit. It saddened me very much. I was upset and gradually I got my name back. When you feel humiliated or things like that, you either use it as fuel to change or you get covered by it.
是的,那个名字失去了它的精髓。那让我非常痛心。我很难过,慢慢收回了那些授权。当你感到羞辱的时候,你要么把它用做改变的动力,要么被它打垮。
You came from a well-to-do Belgian family and married into incredible wealth when you wed Prince Egon von Furstenberg in 1969. Do you think your career trajectory would have been the same had you not had those advantages?
你出身于富裕的比利时家庭,1969年你嫁给埃贡·冯·芙丝汀宝王子(Prince Egon von Furstenberg),算是嫁入了豪门。如果你没有这些优势,你的事业轨迹还会一样吗?
Eighteen months before I was born, my mother was in Auschwitz. She weighed 49 pounds. She always told me that God saved her so she could give me life. I was born out of nothing. My mother was nothing; she was ashes practically. That is much more of an influence on me than what my parents had. Then I married a prince. So big deal, I married a prince!
我出生前18个月,我母亲在奥斯维辛集中营,当时她只有49磅重。她总是跟我说上帝救了她,所以她才能给我生命。我出生的时候一无所有。我的母亲毫不起眼;她几乎像一把灰烬。那对我的影响比父母拥有的财富对我的影响要大得多。然后我嫁给了一个王子。真是不可思议,我嫁给了一个王子!
Didn’t your mother teach you that women were generally stronger than men?
你母亲有没有跟你说过女人通常比男人坚强?
Yeah. My mother said that we’re so lucky to be women. It’s not that men are weak. Men are men. We’re two completely different animals. It’s not that I don’t love men, but when my mother would talk about a man, she’d say “les pauvres.”
是的。我母亲说我们身为女人很幸运。并不是说男人们更脆弱。男人就是男人。我们是两种完全不同的动物。我并不是说我不喜欢男人,但是我母亲提到男人的时候,总是说“那些可怜的人”。
You’ve recalled that in the ’70s you used to drive your Mercedes to Studio 54 alone at midnight. But you were also incredibly ambitious. How did you make it to work the next day?
你曾回忆说在20世纪70年代你常常半夜里独自开着奔驰去54俱乐部(Studio 54)。但是你的事业心也很强。第二天你是怎样打起精神去上班的?
I didn’t stay very long. I had two children and my mother at home, a big business, and I was on my own. I say that image of me driving the Mercedes and walking in alone is like a cowboy going to a saloon, you know? It was really a fantasy of mine, living a man’s life in a woman’s body.
我不会在那里待很久。家里有两个孩子和母亲,还有一大摊生意,而我只能靠自己。我说自己开着奔驰、独自走进俱乐部的感觉像是说一个牛仔走进酒吧,你明白吗?那真的是我自己的幻想,在女人的身体里过着男人的生活。
You married Barry Diller in 2001, but you don’t live in the same house in New York. Is that the secret to a great marriage?
2001年你嫁给了巴里·迪勒(Barry Diller),但是你们在纽约并不住在同一所房子里。那是美满婚姻的秘诀吗?
No, the secret to a great marriage is having a great husband.
不是,美满婚姻的秘诀是有个好丈夫。
I think there’s a lot of curiosity about your marriage.
我想人们对你的婚姻很好奇。
I don’t understand what is there to understand. This man has been my lover, my friend and he’s now my husband. I have been with him for 35 years. At times we were separated, at times we were only friends, at times we were lovers, at times we’re husband and wife, that’s our life.
我不明白有什么可好奇的。这个男人曾是我的情人和朋友,现在是我的丈夫。我和他在一起35年了。有时我们分开,有时我们只是朋友,有时我们是情人,有时我们是夫妻,那就是我们的生活。
It wasn’t that long ago — a decade maybe — that Vogue called you “an exotic catwoman seductress.”
不是很久以前,大约10年前,《Vogue》杂志称你是“一个具有异域风情的、会诱惑人的猫女”。
I was a seductress. But you don’t seduce in the same way at my age. You seduce with brains, with talent. Yesterday for lunch I met the most incredible 90-year-old woman. She survived Auschwitz, she was beautiful, she didn’t have white hair, she didn’t wear glasses. She was totally seductive. I just thought, Oh, my God, I still have time ahead of me.
我是会诱惑人。但是到了我这个年纪,你诱惑人的方法不同了。你用你的头脑和才华诱惑人。昨天午餐的时候,我遇到了一个最不可思议的90岁的女人。她是奥斯维辛集中营的幸存者,她十分美丽,没有白发,不戴眼镜。她充满了诱惑力。我当时想:哦,天哪,我前面的路还很长。
By Interview by ANDREW GOLDMAN August 09, 2013
访谈
黛安·冯芙丝汀宝如何像个牛仔
Interview by ANDREW GOLDMAN 2013年08月09日
Next year, your wrap dress will turn 40. If my great-granddaughter enrolls in the Fashion Institute of Technology, what do you think they’ll say about the dress?
明年就是你设计的裹身裙诞生40周年。如果我的曾孙女报名参加时装技术学院,你觉得那里的老师会怎样评价这款裙子?
It will definitely be in the book. At 25, I had no idea I would be creating something that would be so meaningful. When I first started, my motivation was to be independent, so I created this dress, and in no time at all I lived an American dream. Fourteen years ago, I started again, because I realized that young girls were buying the old dresses in thrift shops. My motivation then was to prove to myself and the world that it hadn’t been an accident the first time.
这款裙子肯定会出现在教科书里。25岁的时候,我完全不知道自己能设计出这么有意义的东西。一开始,我只是想独立,所以我设计了这款裙子,没多久我就实现了美国梦。14年前,我重新开始,因为我发现年轻姑娘们在旧货商店里购买那些老裙子。我想向自己和世界证明我的第一次成功不是偶然。
Do you think it has been all good news for the DVF woman since the early days of the dress?
从那款裙子诞生之初,DVF女装一直一帆风顺吗?
You know, the situation with women is very much on a pendulum. All I can tell you is that I’ve never met a woman who is not strong, but sometimes they don’t let it out. Then there’s a tragedy, and then all of a sudden that strength comes. My message is let the strength come out before the tragedy.
你知道,女人的境况非常摇摆不定。我能告诉你的是,我从没遇到过不坚强的女人,但是有时她们并不把它表现出来。遇到灾难时,突然之间那种力量就爆发出来了。我想说的是,要在灾难到来之前就表现出你的力量。
There was a period after the first company folded when various people got your licenses, and your name was on stuff you probably wouldn’t buy yourself. Did that bother you?
在第一个公司倒闭之后的一段时间,很多人得到了你的授权,你的名字出现在各种东西上,有的东西很可能你自己都不会买。那让你难过吗?
Yes, it had lost its spirit. It saddened me very much. I was upset and gradually I got my name back. When you feel humiliated or things like that, you either use it as fuel to change or you get covered by it.
是的,那个名字失去了它的精髓。那让我非常痛心。我很难过,慢慢收回了那些授权。当你感到羞辱的时候,你要么把它用做改变的动力,要么被它打垮。
You came from a well-to-do Belgian family and married into incredible wealth when you wed Prince Egon von Furstenberg in 1969. Do you think your career trajectory would have been the same had you not had those advantages?
你出身于富裕的比利时家庭,1969年你嫁给埃贡·冯·芙丝汀宝王子(Prince Egon von Furstenberg),算是嫁入了豪门。如果你没有这些优势,你的事业轨迹还会一样吗?
Eighteen months before I was born, my mother was in Auschwitz. She weighed 49 pounds. She always told me that God saved her so she could give me life. I was born out of nothing. My mother was nothing; she was ashes practically. That is much more of an influence on me than what my parents had. Then I married a prince. So big deal, I married a prince!
我出生前18个月,我母亲在奥斯维辛集中营,当时她只有49磅重。她总是跟我说上帝救了她,所以她才能给我生命。我出生的时候一无所有。我的母亲毫不起眼;她几乎像一把灰烬。那对我的影响比父母拥有的财富对我的影响要大得多。然后我嫁给了一个王子。真是不可思议,我嫁给了一个王子!
Didn’t your mother teach you that women were generally stronger than men?
你母亲有没有跟你说过女人通常比男人坚强?
Yeah. My mother said that we’re so lucky to be women. It’s not that men are weak. Men are men. We’re two completely different animals. It’s not that I don’t love men, but when my mother would talk about a man, she’d say “les pauvres.”
是的。我母亲说我们身为女人很幸运。并不是说男人们更脆弱。男人就是男人。我们是两种完全不同的动物。我并不是说我不喜欢男人,但是我母亲提到男人的时候,总是说“那些可怜的人”。
You’ve recalled that in the ’70s you used to drive your Mercedes to Studio 54 alone at midnight. But you were also incredibly ambitious. How did you make it to work the next day?
你曾回忆说在20世纪70年代你常常半夜里独自开着奔驰去54俱乐部(Studio 54)。但是你的事业心也很强。第二天你是怎样打起精神去上班的?
I didn’t stay very long. I had two children and my mother at home, a big business, and I was on my own. I say that image of me driving the Mercedes and walking in alone is like a cowboy going to a saloon, you know? It was really a fantasy of mine, living a man’s life in a woman’s body.
我不会在那里待很久。家里有两个孩子和母亲,还有一大摊生意,而我只能靠自己。我说自己开着奔驰、独自走进俱乐部的感觉像是说一个牛仔走进酒吧,你明白吗?那真的是我自己的幻想,在女人的身体里过着男人的生活。
You married Barry Diller in 2001, but you don’t live in the same house in New York. Is that the secret to a great marriage?
2001年你嫁给了巴里·迪勒(Barry Diller),但是你们在纽约并不住在同一所房子里。那是美满婚姻的秘诀吗?
No, the secret to a great marriage is having a great husband.
不是,美满婚姻的秘诀是有个好丈夫。
I think there’s a lot of curiosity about your marriage.
我想人们对你的婚姻很好奇。
I don’t understand what is there to understand. This man has been my lover, my friend and he’s now my husband. I have been with him for 35 years. At times we were separated, at times we were only friends, at times we were lovers, at times we’re husband and wife, that’s our life.
我不明白有什么可好奇的。这个男人曾是我的情人和朋友,现在是我的丈夫。我和他在一起35年了。有时我们分开,有时我们只是朋友,有时我们是情人,有时我们是夫妻,那就是我们的生活。
It wasn’t that long ago — a decade maybe — that Vogue called you “an exotic catwoman seductress.”
不是很久以前,大约10年前,《Vogue》杂志称你是“一个具有异域风情的、会诱惑人的猫女”。
I was a seductress. But you don’t seduce in the same way at my age. You seduce with brains, with talent. Yesterday for lunch I met the most incredible 90-year-old woman. She survived Auschwitz, she was beautiful, she didn’t have white hair, she didn’t wear glasses. She was totally seductive. I just thought, Oh, my God, I still have time ahead of me.
我是会诱惑人。但是到了我这个年纪,你诱惑人的方法不同了。你用你的头脑和才华诱惑人。昨天午餐的时候,我遇到了一个最不可思议的90岁的女人。她是奥斯维辛集中营的幸存者,她十分美丽,没有白发,不戴眼镜。她充满了诱惑力。我当时想:哦,天哪,我前面的路还很长。
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