化妆品能防晒吗？

Rethinking Makeup’s Sun Protection
By BEE SHAPIRO August 09, 2013
个人健康
化妆品能防晒吗？
BEE SHAPIRO 2013年08月09日
The [要查看本链接请先注册并登录] have been closely parsed by the health community. But how will they affect your beauty routine?
对于[要查看本链接请先注册并登录](Food and Drug Administration)有关防晒霜标签的新规定，健康界的人士已经进行了深入剖析。可是，新规将如何改变你的美容程序呢？
Especially come humid summer days, many women (and complexion-concerned men) rely on just their color cosmetics for their daily dose of SPF. The labels of trendy beauty balm and color control products (a k a BB and CC creams); their close cousins, tinted moisturizers; liquid foundations; and face powders often boast coverage of up to SPF 50. The new F.D.A. rules require that any SPF claiming “broad spectrum protection” must cover both UVA and UVB rays.
尤其是在潮湿的夏天，很多女性（以及关注外表的男性）在进行日常防晒时，完全只依靠彩妆产品。现在各种时髦的护肤油膏和润色产品（比如BB霜和CC霜），它们的近亲——润色保湿霜，粉底液，以及散粉的标签上，往往号称防晒SPF指数可高达50。食品药品监督局的新规定则要求，声称“广谱保护”的SPF值，都需要同时防护UVA和UVB两种紫外线。
So if your makeup offers broad spectrum SPF 15 (the recommended minimum level of protection) or above, you’re covered, right?
所以，如果你的彩妆能提供SPF15（这是防晒产品的推荐起步值）或以上的广谱防晒，你就可以高枕无忧了，是吗？
[要查看本图请先注册并登录]
Joshua Hodge Photography/Getty Images
列明了不同级别防晒指数的产品包括：（从左至右）资生堂艳阳夏粉饼、魅可粉底、香缇卡自然肌肤润色隔离和爱茉莉的CC气垫粉饼，其中爱茉莉的防晒值最高。
The short answer: “No,” said Dr. Jeanine Downie, a dermatologist based in Montclair, N.J., and a contributor to [要查看本链接请先注册并登录]. “Because if you put on foundation, it’s thicker in some places and thinner in some places. Also, you’re probably not putting it on your neck. So I tell people, you need to first put a generous amount of sunblock and then your makeup on.” Dr. Downie recommends lotions for more-even coverage, but layering cosmetics with SPF on top doesn’t hurt, either.
简单回答：“不是。”说这话的是珍妮·唐尼(Jeanie Downie)博士，她是皮肤科医生，也是[要查看本链接请先注册并登录]的撰稿人，定居新泽西州蒙特克莱尔。“因为如果你搽粉底液，在脸上会厚薄不均。而且你恐怕不会连脖子也搽到。所以我会建议大家先涂一层厚厚的防晒，然后再涂彩妆。”唐尼医生建议使用防晒乳液，这样可以涂得更加均匀，不过在防晒乳液的上面再涂几层带SPF防晒的彩妆也没有问题。
Lest you think the oft-clinical-sounding BB and CC creams are better for protection than classic foundations, Dr. Downie said: “It’s more makeup than sunscreen. It’s about how you apply it, and you’re probably just dabbing a color product on only where you need it.”
为了避免大家误认为听起来很像医疗术语的BB霜和CC霜比起传统粉底液，在防晒方面效果更好，唐尼表示：“它们更像是彩妆，而非防晒霜。这取决于你使用它的方式，不过你恐怕只会在需要的地方轻拍一点彩妆。”
The good news is that technology for color products containing SPF is improving. The F.D.A. rules have led many beauty companies to boost their protection levels and invest in reformulation. (Many BB and CC creams have provided only UVB protection in the past, Dr. Downie said.)
好消息是，含SPF防晒的彩妆产品研发技术也在日新月异。食品药品监督局推出新规定，引发不少化妆品公司提升产品防护能力，并加大力度改良配方。（唐尼医生说，很多BB霜和CC霜以往只能防UVB。）
For example, in March, AmorePacific, a Korean company, introduced the CC Cushion Compact with one of the highest SPFs around: a broad spectrum 50+. “Sure, you’ll use Banana Boat or Coppertone for the beach, but you don’t want that on your face daily,” said Esther Dong, the senior vice president for sales and marketing of the company’s United States division.
比方说，今年3月，韩国的爱茉莉(AmorePacific)公司就推出了一款CC气垫粉饼，SPF值是同类产品中最高的，达到广谱防晒SPF50+。“你当然可以在去海边时使用香蕉船(Banana Boat)或水宝宝(Coppertone)防晒，但你肯定也不想天天往脸上抹那些，”该公司美国分公司销售推广副总裁艾丝特·董(Esther Dong)这样说。
She said the company had spent much time and money coming up with a stable formulation that would pass American standards and deliver smooth, weightless color. (In Asia, the company often uses Tinosorb-S, which is not approved for use in the United States.) This is often difficult with titanium dioxide, a common sunscreen that is naturally chalky, Ms. Dong said. Rather than water, AmorePacific used bamboo sap, which also offers hydration benefits, to dilute the product, she said. It is now the company’s best-seller in the United States, with consumers touting its silky coverage and high SPF on [要查看本链接请先注册并登录]. Though lightweight in feel, the compact comes at a hefty price: $60.
她说公司投入了巨大的时间和财力，研发出了一个可靠的配方，它既能通过美国标准，同时能带来柔滑、轻盈的色泽。（在亚洲，这家公司在配方中常使用天来施S[Tinosorb-S]，但在美国这种化合物未经批准使用。）董女士说，在防晒产品配方中往往使用二氧化钛，但它本身的质地非常厚重苍白，因此无法达到轻薄的妆感。她说，爱茉莉没有使用水，而用竹子萃取物来稀释产品，同样也能达到补水的目的。这种粉饼已经成为公司在美国最畅销的产品，消费者因其丝滑质感和高防晒值，在[要查看本链接请先注册并登录]上热烈抢购。这种粉饼的质地虽然轻盈，但售价不菲，高达60美元一只。
Many foundations contain chemical sunscreens like avobenzone (sometimes called Parsol 1789, one of its trade names), oxybenzone or octinoxate, because they avoid the inherent “matteness or chalkiness” of mineral ingredients like titanium dioxide and [要查看本链接请先注册并登录] oxide, said Vic Casale, the chief of innovation for Cover FX and a founding partner of MAC Cosmetics. But when Mr. Casale got wind of the F.D.A. rules (an early draft circulated in 2011), he wasn’t taking any chances. Starting in January 2012, Cover FX reformulated all of its products, he said, removing all SPF claims from their liquid and powder foundations. “We had to with the powder, it was a choice with liquid,” Mr. Casale said, referring to his interpretation of the F.D.A.’s new guidelines.
维克·卡萨尔(Vic Casale)是Cover FX公司首席创新官、也曾参与创立魅可彩妆(MAC Cosmetics)，据他说，很多粉底液都含有化学防晒成分，比如阿伏苯宗（商品名帕索1789）、氧苯酮或桂皮酸盐，这是因为它们不像二氧化钛和氧化[要查看本链接请先注册并登录]这类矿物质成份那样，本身的质地就“油腻而苍白”。不过，在卡萨尔听闻食品药品监督局新规则的风声（2011年，新规的草案不胫而走）时，他并没有心存侥幸。他说，Cover FX公司从2012年1月起就更改了所有产品的配方，删除了粉底液和粉饼的所有防晒标注。“我们必须将粉饼也算进去，因为它是粉底液的第二选择，”卡萨尔这样阐释他本人对食品药品监督局新规则的解读。
The brand has incorporated chemical sunscreens into its Total Cover Cream Foundation compact with SPF 30 ($42), because the coverage is “very consistent” (the formula is thick) and it stays on for most of the day, he said. It also introduced an SPF 30 primer, intended to go under makeup. Both feature broad spectrum protection.
这个品牌在SPF30的完美遮盖粉饼（Total Cover Cream Foundation，42美元）中添加了化学防晒剂，他说这是因为这种粉饼“非常持久”（配方较厚重），而且可以保持几乎一整天不脱妆。它还有一种SPF30的隔离霜，用在彩妆前面。两个产品都提供广谱防晒。
When deciding on the exact chemical composition, Mr. Casale said, he turned to the Web site of the Environmental Working Group, a research and advocacy organization, to choose safer options. “We have today what I call the ‘Google customer,’ ” he said. “The Google customer is reading online, they are going to the [要查看本链接请先注册并登录] Web site and other skin Web sites. They e-mail us. So that’s why we improved our safety profile.”
卡萨尔说，在确定使用哪些化合物时，他参考了研究和倡导组织“环境工作组”(Environmental Working Group)的网站，以寻找更安全的方案。“现在我们要面对的是我所说的‘谷歌顾客’，”他说，“谷歌顾客会在线浏览，会研究[要查看本链接请先注册并登录]网站和其他护肤站点。他们还会给我们发邮件。我们因此改良了公司的安全指南。”
But mineral sunscreens also have their devoted fans because they’re “inert, and completely nontoxic,” said Dr. David Colbert, a dermatologist in Manhattan who says that he slathers himself with zinc oxide before he goes surfing. And if white-nosed surfer dude is not your daily look, there are lighter options out there, like Chantecaille Just Skin tinted moisturizer with mineral SPF 15 broad spectrum protection ($64).
不过，矿物质防晒产品同样有其忠实拥趸，据曼哈顿的皮肤科医生大卫·科尔伯特(David Colbert)说，这是因为它们“非常稳定，而且完全无毒”。他说他在出去冲浪前，总会涂上厚厚的氧化锌防晒霜。如果你平时不喜欢把鼻子涂得白白的冲浪猛男装扮，那么也可以选择较为轻薄的护肤品，比如香缇卡(Chantecaille)的自然肌肤润色隔离(Just Skin tinted moisturizer)，它的SPF值为15，可提供广谱防晒（64美元）。
“Mineral sunscreens don’t penetrate the bloodstream,” said Sylvie Chantecaille, president and chief executive of the beauty company. “That was top of my mind when we started developing it. But I really wanted to create a product that was also easy to wear and not ugly. I had to go to Japan, which is sometimes 10 years ahead of the U.S. and Europe, for the technology.”
“矿物质防晒霜不会渗透进血液中，”香缇卡公司的总裁兼首席执行官思乐薇·香缇卡(Sylvie Chantecaille)说，“当我们开始进行研发时，这是第一个跳进我脑海里的念头。但我同时还非常想要创造一种易于上妆、并且不那么丑陋的产品。为了这门技术，我特意去了日本，那里要比欧美领先差不多10年。”
If other lo-fi mineral foundations are less luminous, a touch of highlighter (the [要查看本链接请先注册并登录] works well) on the cheekbones, brow bones and down the nose can help. For those with darker skin tones, Dr. Downie, who is African-American, suggests a balance of chemical and mineral sunscreens. Particularly look for micronized minerals, Dr. Downie said, which blend better into tanned skin.
如果其他矿物质粉底光泽度欠佳，那么，在颧骨、眉骨和鼻翼下方打高光粉（[要查看本链接请先注册并登录][NARS multiple]效果不错）会很有帮助。唐尼医生本人是黑人，她建议那些肤色较深的人可以将化学和矿物质粉底调合使用。她特别推荐微粒矿物质粉底，在深褐色的肌肤上显得更协调。
The jury is still out on powders — many of which (including the popular Bare Escentuals line) have made protection claims for years. Dr. Colbert, for one, is not a fan. “Powders are millions of little particles,” he said. “They can’t form a uniform shield. They’re a physical sunblock in a way, but they let too much light through.”
主流皮肤科医生仍然不看好防晒粉底——而其中很多产品（包括热卖的自然香调[Bare Escentuals]系列）多年来一直声称可起到防晒作用。科尔伯特医生就是其中一位。“防晒粉底是由上百万微粒组成的，”他说，“它们无法形成一套整体的屏障。从某种意义上来说它们可作为物理防晒，但大量紫外线可以透过屏障。”
Ms. Chantecaille is in the process of removing SPF claims from Chantecaille’s powder products (but keeping the existing formulations). “You can’t control what women do,” she said. “I think they are applying the powder definitely to the nose and forehead, but I can’t guarantee where they are applying and how much.”
香缇卡女士正在着手将防晒系数从香缇卡粉底产品的说明中删去，但现有的配方不会更改。她说：“你不能控制女士们的所做所为。我认为她们肯定会在鼻梁和前额上打粉底，但我不能担保她们会在哪些部位打粉，用多大的量。”
But Shiseido has no plans to change the labeling of its top-selling [要查看本链接请先注册并登录] powder foundation with SPF 34 ($27). The company’s executive director of marketing, Gisela Ballard, said the brand “retested all of our products to make sure that we comply with broad spectrum.”
至于资生堂(Shiseido)则无意更改旗下热卖的[要查看本链接请先注册并登录]（SPF34，27美元）的标签。公司营销总监吉塞拉·巴拉德(Gisela Ballard)说他们已经“对所有产品重新测试，以确保我们符合有关广谱防晒的要求”。
Lisa Powers, a spokeswoman for the Personal Care Products Council, a trade association in Washington that lobbies for its members (including Shiseido), pointed out that the F.D.A. has not yet definitively ruled on the matter. “We, along with many in the dermatology community, believe that powders are an important sunscreen dosage form,” she wrote in an e-mail.
个人护理用品协会(Personal Care Products Council)是一家总部设在华盛顿、为成员（包括资生堂）游说的行业组织，协会发言人丽莎·鲍尔斯(Lisa Powers)指出，食品和药品管理局并未完全禁止防晒粉底。“我们和很多皮肤科的业界人士都相信，防晒粉底是一种重要的防晒剂型，”她在一封电子邮件里这样写道。
The dermatologists do agree on one thing: That it’s important to wear sufficient sunscreen. “Just use broad spectrum protection every day,” Dr. Downie said.
皮肤科医生们在这一点上确实有共识：涂足量的防晒品十分关键。“每天都应使用广谱防晒产品，”唐尼医生说。