徒步走遍朝鲜半岛，一个新西兰人的梦想

New Zealander Hopes to Hike North and South Korea
By CHOE SANG-HUN July 31, 2013

徒步走遍朝鲜半岛，一个新西兰人的梦想
CHOE SANG-HUN 2013年07月31日
SONGNISAN, South Korea — Roger Shepherd, a former police officer from [要查看本链接请先注册并登录], holds the unusual record of being the first foreigner to set foot in many of the remotest mountains of [要查看本链接请先注册并登录] since at least the 1950-53 Korean War. Now, he is chasing a dream that looks even more daunting, something no one in living memory has attempted.
韩国俗离山——来自[要查看本链接请先注册并登录]的前警官罗杰·谢泼德(Roger Shepherd)保持着一项不同寻常的纪录，他是至少在1950年至1953年的朝鲜战争之后首位踏足朝鲜许多极其偏远的山脉的外国人。如今，他正在追逐一个令人愈发望而却步的梦想，一件今人的记忆中还没有谁尝试过去做的事。
He wants to walk the entire Baekdudaegan, the mountain range that runs 1,400 kilometers, or 870 miles, and forms the geological spine of the Korean Peninsula, starting from Baekdusan on the North Korean border with China, then winding down the east coast across the highly fortified demilitarized zone before ending at Jirisan, a mountain near the south coast of [要查看本链接请先注册并登录].
他想徒步走完整个白头大干山脉。白头大干山脉绵延1400公里，构成了朝鲜半岛地形的脊梁，整个山脉始于朝鲜与中国交界处的白头山（中国称长白山），然后顺着东海岸越过戒备森严的非军事区，最后绵延至[要查看本链接请先注册并登录]南海岸附近的智异山。
With the two Koreas locked in tensions triggered by the North’s Feb. 12 nuclear test, Mr. Shepherd’s dream may sound like little more than that for now. But he remains convinced that he has found something deeply unifying among all Koreans that he believes will eventually persuade the authorities on both sides to recognize the significance of his proposal.
鉴于朝鲜2月12日进行的核试验导致朝韩两国局势紧张，谢泼德的梦想现在听上去可能仅仅是个梦想。但他依然深信自己已经找到了让朝韩两国人民紧紧凝聚在一起的东西，他相信，这种东西最终会让双方当局意识到他的提议多么重要。
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Roger Shepherd
白头大干山脉绵延1400公里，构成了朝鲜半岛地形的脊梁，其最高峰是颇受尊崇的白头山。
Mr. Shepherd’s ambition draws upon the near-religious reverence Koreans feel for Baekdudaegan, and for Baekdusan, its tallest peak at 2,744 meters, or about 9,000 feet. The South Korean national anthem opens with a reference to Baekdusan. North Koreans calls themselves the “Baekdusan nation.”
谢泼德的宏伟梦想利用了朝鲜民族对白头大干山脉和白头山近乎宗教般的敬畏，白头山是白头大干山脉的最高峰，海拔2744米。韩国国歌一开始便提到了白头山。朝鲜人则称自己为“白头山民族”。
“Koreans often say that mountains are part of their DNA, part of who they are,” Mr. Shepherd said in an interview. “When I talk about mountains in South and North Korea, people just ease up and talk about a subject that has no enemy.”
“朝韩人常常说山脉是他们的DNA的一部分，是他们民族身份的一部分，”谢泼德在一次采访中说，“当我说到韩国和朝鲜的山峰时，人们很放松，只是在讨论一个不存在敌人的话题。”
It was Koreans’ love of mountains, especially Baekdudaegan, that has opened doors to him in both Koreas.
正是人民这种对山，尤其是对白头大干山脉的热爱让他得以进入韩国和朝鲜。
That hospitality will be tested next year, when Mr. Shepherd plans to request formally that the two governments allow him to hike the full length of Baekdudaegan. No traveler can legally cross the border without permission from both sides. Mr. Shepherd said that when he recently broached the idea to government contacts in Pyongyang and Seoul, their initial reaction was positive but he was also told that the final decision would depend on the political mood then.
谢泼德计划于明年正式请求两国政府允许他徒步走完整个白头大干山脉，这种热情届时会面临考验。在未得到双方许可的情况下，任何游客都无法合法过境。谢泼德称前不久已向平壤和首尔的政府联络部门提出了这个想法。它们最初的反应都是积极的，但他也被告知，最终决定要视届时的政治气氛而定。
Mr. Shepherd, 47, became a minor celebrity in South Korea after he and a fellow New Zealander, Andrew Douch, became the first foreigners to walk the entire South Korean section of the mountain chain, in 2007, and published an [要查看本链接请先注册并登录]to the trail, with David A. Mason, in 2010.
2007年，谢泼德和另一名新西兰人安德鲁·杜奇(Andrew Douch)成为最早走完白头大干山脉韩国段的外国人。2010年，他与戴维·A·梅森(David A. Mason)出版了关于该路线的英语旅游指南。这之后，谢泼德在韩国变得小有名气。
Armed with 10 copies of that book and an introduction from the [要查看本链接请先注册并登录], a nongovernmental group that promotes cultural dialogue between the two countries, Mr. Shepherd arrived in Pyongyang in May 2011. He told officials there that he wanted to do something that, because of tensions on the divided peninsula, no Korean from either side had ever done: document all the main mountains of Baekdudaegan, in both North and South.
2011年5月，谢泼德带着10本自己出版的旅游指南和一封朝鲜-新西兰友好协会([要查看本链接请先注册并登录])的介绍信来到了平壤。该协会是一个非政府组织，倡导朝鲜与新西兰两国进行文化交流。他告诉平壤的官员，他想记录下白头大干山脉在朝鲜和韩国境内的所有主要山峰。因为分裂的朝鲜半岛上的紧张局势，朝鲜和韩国都还没人这么做过。
And he was pitching this idea in North Korea, where much of the population suffers chronic food shortages and other privations and where hiking for fun — a favorite pastime in South Korea — is hardly known.
而且，他正在朝鲜宣传这个想法。在朝鲜，许多人面临着长期食物短缺和其他匮乏，而且，为了好玩而徒步旅行是韩国人最喜欢的消遣方式，但在朝鲜却几乎不为人知。
“People go to the mountains of North Korea specifically for a purpose: to move from one village to the next, to go looking for herbs and spices, to go hunting and — where you are allowed to — to go to collect wood,” he said. “Literally, North Korean mountains are empty of recreational hikers.”
“去朝鲜登山的人都有具体的目的：从一个村庄搬到另一个村庄，去寻找草药香料，打猎，以及在被准许的地方收集木材，”谢泼德说，“朝鲜的山上没有一个休闲的徒步登山者，真的是这样。”
Mr. Shepherd said that North Korean officials seemed to appreciate a foreigner who had come to the North not to talk politics nor to hand out aid, but with a genuine interest in their mountains. As in South Korea, the idea of reunifying the long-divided peninsula has a strong pull among people in the North, and his contacts in Pyongyang recognized the symbolism of his project.
谢泼德说，朝鲜官员似乎很欢迎他这样一个外国人，他来到朝鲜，不是来谈政治，也不是发放救济，而是因为对这里的山脉有真正的兴趣。和韩国一样，在朝鲜，结束半岛长期分离的现状对人们来说有着巨大的吸引力，而谢泼德在朝鲜的熟人也认为他的计划有很大的象征意义。
“They thought it was a good thing for the whole of Korea,” he said. “I remember one of the military officers saying to the effect that, even though Korea was divided, Baekdudaegan is not, but only a bird can travel freely along Baekdudaegan at the moment.”
“他们认为这对朝鲜半岛所有人来说都是件好事，”谢泼德说，“我记得一名军官曾说过类似这样的话，朝鲜半岛是分裂的，但白头大干山脉不是，不过现在，只有小鸟能自由飞越这座山脉。”
Between March 2011 and July 2012, Mr. Shepherd visited North Korea four times, spending a total of three months climbing and photographing 24 Baekdudaegan peaks. Most were in some of the most inaccessible parts of the world’s most isolated country — areas where Mr. Shepherd was certain he was the first foreigner to set foot since the war, partly because, as his North Korean contacts told him, no one else had ever asked to visit them before.
在2011年3月至2012年7月间，谢泼德共来过朝鲜四次，花了总共三个月时间攀登白头大干山脉的24座山峰，并为其拍照。他所攀登的大部分山峰位于这个世界上最孤立国家内最难以到达的地方——谢泼德很确定他是自战争以来第一个涉足这些地方的外国人，而正如他在朝鲜的熟人所说，这部分上是因为，没有人任何其他人曾要求拜访这些地方。
Now back in South Korea, living in a house at the foot of Songnisan, a Baekdudaegan mountain 120 kilometers southeast of Seoul, Mr. Shepherd runs [要查看本链接请先注册并登录] and makes a living photographing and writing about mountains and leading hiking tours.
现在，谢泼德回到了韩国，住在俗离山脚下的一幢房子里，俗离山属于白头大干山山系，位于首尔东南120公里处，谢泼德经营着一家叫做“徒步朝鲜半岛”([要查看本链接请先注册并登录])的公司，以拍摄山脉、写登山故事，并带领人们徒步旅行为生。
“Although our nation is divided, Baekdudaegan symbolizes the historical and ecological continuity of the peninsula,” said Chun Bom-kwon, a director general in the South’s [要查看本链接请先注册并登录], which partly financed Mr. Shepherd’s North Korea trips. “His work will reaffirm that Baekdudaegan is one entity even though it is cut in half by a fence.”
“尽管我们的民族处于分离状态，但白头大干山脉象征着朝鲜半岛历史和生态上的延续，”韩国山林厅([要查看本链接请先注册并登录])的一位局长钱凡权（Chun Bom-kwon，音译）表示，“谢泼德所做的事情将重申这一点，即虽然白头大干山脉被一道篱笆隔成两半，但它仍是一个整体。”山林厅为谢泼德的朝鲜之旅提供了部分资金。
Each year, thousands of South Koreans make a pilgrimage up the Chinese side of Baekdusan and pray for reunification at the mountaintop lake. In the South, brightly dressed urban hikers offer food and drink at the shrines of the sansin, or mountain gods, along Baekdudaegan at the start of the hiking season.
每年，数千名韩国人会沿着白头山中国段进行朝圣之旅，并在山顶的天池为两国的统一祈祷。在韩国，徒步登山季开始时，来自城市的那些衣着光鲜的徒步者会在沿白头大干山脉的山神阁内供奉食物和饮料。
In the North, Baekdusan features prominently in the government’s campaign to incorporate elements of indigenous mountain worship into the personality cult that buttresses the dynastic rule of the Kim family. The “secret camps” that Kim Il-sung, the founder of North Korea and grandfather of the current leader, Kim Jong-un, purportedly established around Baekdusan when he waged guerrilla war against Japanese colonial rule have been preserved as sacred sites.
而在朝鲜，政府将当地山神崇拜元素融入到支撑金氏家族王朝统治的个人崇拜运动中，白头山在里面占据着重要地位。朝鲜开国者、现任领袖金正恩(Kim Jong-un)的祖父金日成(Kim Il-sung)，号称曾在开展游击战争反抗日本殖民统治时在白头山周围建立“密营”，现在这些地方已被作为圣地保护起来。
Such lore drives Mr. Shepherd’s ambition to become the first person to hike the entire length of Baekdudaegan. Such a journey, he said, could help Koreans affirm their shared national identity after decades of separation that have seen the two sides drift apart in language, culture and economy.
这些故事促使谢泼德决心成为徒步穿越白头大干山脉的第一人。他说，这样的旅行能帮助朝韩两国人民加强其共同的民族身份认同，此前两国已经历数十年的分离，两者的语言、文化和经济渐行渐远。
But he remains first of all an explorer.
但不管怎样，谢泼德首先是一个探索者。
“It’s never been done before,” he said. “Any adventurer wants to be the first.”
“从没有人这么做过，”谢泼德说，“每个探险者都想做第一个。”